Neglected Sourdough Starter

A lot of people have written to tell me that my foolproof sourdough starter has worked for them. Many of them had tried numerous times to create their own starter, only to give up at some point in the process. Following my tutorial, though, they’ve found what others have discovered: anyone can create a successful sourdough starter.

Once they have their starters going, the question I get most often from people is, “How do I keep it alive, especially if I don’t bake that often?” Or, more often, the question goes something like this: “I forgot about/didn’t use/neglected my starter for several weeks. It’s all greyish and nasty looking. Did I kill it?”

The good news is, it’s almost impossible to kill a healthy starter. They can take a lot of abuse and neglect and still bounce back. And believe me, I know this from experience.

As noted in my tutorial, I keep my starter in the refrigerator, since I don’t bake with it all the time. When I was first learning to bake sourdough bread, I baked with my starter every week, keeping it in the fridge between bakings. Since I was baking weekly, my starter was being fed at least once each week.

When I ventured into other types of baking, I found I wasn’t using my starter as often. I still fed it weekly, but eventually that became every few weeks, and sometimes even longer.

A few weeks ago, I realized I hadn’t even seen my starter for about three or four weeks, so I dug it out of the fridge to feed it. This is what I found:

The greyish liquid floating on top of the starter is called “hooch”. It’s basically just dead yeast cells. When my starter has a little hooch on the top, I stir it back in before feeding the starter. In this case, I poured it off.

If you read the starter tutorial, you’ll note that I generally feed my starter at a 1:1:1 (starter:water:flour) ratio. If I know I won’t be using it for a while, I might feed it at a higher ratio, sometimes as much as 1:3:3, to give the yeast more fresh food to work on while it sits in the fridge. In this case, I wanted to ease the starter back to an active state, so I stuck with a 1:1:1 feeding.

Within 12 hours, my severely neglected starter had come back to life and was bubbling away happily on the counter.

Since I had neglected it for so long, I gave it two more 12-hour feedings before returning it to the fridge. I haven’t baked with it since I fed it, so I got it out today to feed it up again. Because it was well-fed and active the last time I got it out, this time it didn’t look so bad.

So don’t worry if your starter has been sitting, neglected in the back of the fridge. Chances are, if you take it out and give it a few feedings, it will spring right back to life and be as good as new.

Gérard’s Mustard Tart {FFwD}

One of the reasons I established the Modern Baker Challenge was that I wanted to develop my skills as a pastry chef. You see, although I’ve been cooking and baking for most of my life, I’ve never quite mastered the art of pastry dough. In fact, I usually buy frozen pie crusts whenever I am baking a pie, quiche, or tart. Wanting to overcome my fear of pastry dough, I decided to bake my way through Nick Malgieri‘s The Modern Baker, which is filled with pies, tarts, and the like.

So, although I took on the challenge of cooking my way through Around My French Table mainly to develop skills in French cooking, I was appreciative of the fact that it would also force me to make tart dough for a number of recipes, including Gérard’s Mustard Tart.

This week’s recipe is really two recipes: the mustard tart, on page 154, and tart dough, on page 498. The tart dough takes a bit of time to make, as the initial dough has to chill for at least three hours, and once it’s panned, it has to chill another hour before it is blind baked. I made the dough a few days before baking the tart and rolled it out (with decent, if not perfect, results) just before making the mustard tart.

As I read the instructions, I realized my tart pan was 11 inches, instead of the 9-inch pan called for in the recipe. I tried to roll the dough out enough to fit my pan and came pretty close.

While the crust was pre-baking, I began chopping carrots and leeks for the tart. The vegetables were cut into matchsticks and steamed with a sprig of rosemary. I don’t have a vegetable steamer, but I have found that my colander set into the top of a stock pot works well. I wrap foil around the top of the colander to cover the holes that don’t fit down into the pot. This method has always worked well for me; so well that I’ve never felt the need to buy a steamer.

The vegetables smelled intoxicating. The rosemary became very fragrant as soon as the colander hit the steamer, and I could smell the sweet scent of the leeks within a minute or so.

While the vegetables were steaming, I mixed up the custard, which consisted of eggs, heavy cream, Dijon mustard, Maille moutarde à l’ancienne (hooray for World Market!), salt, and pepper. After tasting the custard to adjust the salt, pepper, and mustards, I poured the custard into the cooled tart shell, then topped it with the vegetables.

A little sprinkle of salt and pepper on the top, and it was ready to bake. I baked the tart at 425°F for about 30 minutes, until the custard was set and the crust and vegetables nicely browned. I allowed the tart to cool for a few minutes, then removed it from the pan.

I was pleased with the way the tart looked when it came out of the pan. It held together well, and compared favorably to the picture in the book. But as they say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. So, how did it taste? As I Tweeted immediately after taking my first bite, “I think I died and went to Paris!” The bite of the mustard paired perfectly with the sweetness of the steamed carrots and leeks.

This is an excellent recipe that I will definitely add to my repertoire. It would make an impressive appetizer, but would stand up equally well as a main dish. Either way, I would bring it to the table whole, as it is just beautiful, and cut it with a chef’s knife before serving.

See what the other Dorians are up to here.

Bon appetit!

Perfect Elephant Ears — The Modern Baker

Having recently tried my hand at homemade puff pastry, I needed to find ways to use it. One of the recipes I was most excited to try was Perfect Elephant Ears on page 210 of The Modern Baker by Nick Malgieri. Although we won’t get to the Puff Pastry section in the Modern Baker Challenge for almost a year, I couldn’t wait to make these wonderful looking pastries.

The ingredients list couldn’t be any simpler: puff pastry and sugar. That’s right, no cocoa, cinnamon, or other spices. Just puff pastry rolled in enough sugar to caramelize the ears.

I began by sprinkling the board and puff pastry liberally with sugar, then patting out the pastry to soften it slightly. I rolled the pastry into a rectangle, adding more sugar to the board and top of the pastry as I went. I rolled the sides of the pastry in toward the middle, then rolled one side over the other and flattened the resulting cylinder slightly.

After chilling the dough, I sliced it with a sharp knife, dredged the pieces in sugar, and put them on a baking pan lined with a Silpat. I baked the elephant ears at 375° F for about 18 minutes, until they were well caramelized, almost to the point of burning.

I enjoyed the elephant ears with a cup of tea. The lightness of the puff pastry paired well with the caramelized sugar. These pastries were so simple to make, but were delicious enough to serve to company.

Now that I’ve discovered how easy it is to make puff pastry, I will have treats like these elephant ears around quite often.

Hopefully not too often.

Chocolate Babka Loaf {ModBak}

The first of my two “official” blog posts for the Yeast-Risen Specialties section of the Modern Baker Challenge is a delicious recipe, Chocolate Babka. This bread is Eastern European in origin, most likely Russian. The dough is enriched with milk, butter, egg yolks, and sugar, and filled with bittersweet chocolate and nuts.

I began by heating the milk, then mixing in the yeast, butter, sugar, salt, egg yolks, and vanilla. I stirred in half the flour with a rubber spatula, then mixed in the rest, one-half cup at a time, with the electric mixer. After all the flour had been added, I mixed the dough for two minutes, rested it for 10 minutes, then mixed for another two minutes.

I scraped the dough, which was very slack, into a buttered bowl, then put it in the refrigerator. It was supposed to chill for an hour and a half, but I had some errands to run, so it stayed in the fridge for about three hours. I don’t think the long, cold fermentation hurt the dough, but when I scraped it out onto the bench, it was still very slack.

I sprinkled the board with flour, but should have floured it more heavily. I should also have floured the top of the dough a bit. I patted out the dough, but it was so sticky, it was hard to manage. After pressing it out into a rough rectangle, I sprinkled the dough with the bittersweet chocolate mixture (chocolate, dark cocoa, sugar, and cinnamon) and chopped nuts.

I had quite a time rolling the dough, as it wanted to stick to the mat, my hands, and itself. It wasn’t pretty, but I finally got the dough rolled into a rough loaf shape, which I cut in half, then wrestled into two loaf pans.

The loaves proofed for about two hours, until the dough crested the tops of the pans. I baked the loaves for 45 minutes at 350°.

I took the bread out of the oven, cooled it in the pan for 10 minutes, then removed the loaves and finished cooling them on their sides so the loaves wouldn’t collapse.

What this bread lacked in appearance and manageability, it more than made up for in taste. The bittersweet chocolate was delicious, and the cinnamon gave it an additional depth of flavor.

The next time I make this bread – and there will certainly be a next time — I’ll flour the board and dough more heavily to make it easier to handle. But even with the difficulties I had, this bread was definitely worth the effort.

Gougères (Cheese Puffs) {FFwD}

The first weekly recipe featured at French Fridays with Dorie is also the first recipe in Around My French Table. An inspired choice, if you ask me. After all, what better place to start than at the beginning? And I can’t think of a better recipe to kick off FFwD than Gougères. They’re light and airy cheese appetizers:  think cheese-filled cream puffs.

The recipe begins with a pâte à choux, a light pastry dough consisting of eggs, milk, water, butter, salt, and flour. The dough is very wet and, unlike other pastry doughs, must be piped for spooned out because it is too soft to support itself. When baked, the dough puffs up to several times its original size. In the case of Gougères, the pâte à choux dough has Gruyère cheese added to it.

The Gougères took about 25 minutes to bake and were delicious right out of the oven. They were light, airy, and oh-so-cheesy. My family and I devoured them in no time.

I think Dorie knew what she was doing when she chose this as the first FFwD recipe. It’s simple and delicious. And it would be hard to make these and not be hooked on her new book.

I’m definitely hooked.  And now I have one more reason to look forward to Fridays.

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